8 September

Next stop Cuenca via a mountain road that traces the course of the Rio Júcar for most of the way. It turned out to be an excellent road and very popular with bikers and wild donkeys.

Bikers beware wild donkeys around the next bend

The river has, over time, eroded gorges into the rock creating 200 meter deep vertical walls. The best double heebejeebe view of one of these gorges is from the Devil's window, a skull shaped rock complete with two eye shaped portals.

Linda waving from the Devil's window

View from the Devil's window

According to popular tradition, this spectacular view point is the work of the Devil, in the guise of a hollow rock, vaulted like a giant skull, the Devil organised witchcraft sessions and hurled into the abyss all those that dared to lean over the balcony overlooking the void.

Hocus pocus aside, we arrived at Cuenca to view the famous hanging houses. This UNESCO world heritage site did not feel as intact as Albarracin which for some reason has not be given the UNESCO seal of approval (yet).

The hanging houses of Cuenca

We didn't dally too long in Cuenca and by late afternoon we were out of there and heading south to a tiny village called Fuentealbilla. For those readers of our blog who do not follow European football, this place has a bar/cafe owned by the grandfather of Andrés Iniesta, the legendary Barcelona midfielder.

The cafe is a museum of Iniesta's football career documenting it from the age of six. We met his grandmother but unfortunately grandad was away with the keys until the following day so the best we could do was peak through the shutters at the wall covered memorabilia. Fantastico!

Linda having a sneak preview at Cafe Lugan

It's by now getting late in the day and we are miles from nowhere looking for a place to stay, so we kept heading south and by chance we finished up once again following the river Júcar.

The Júcar Gorge doing a very good Spanish impression of the Ardeche

The road from here on suddenly narrowed and began snaking its way around blind corners with overhanging rocks, it was a mixture of the Amalfi coast road and the Ardeche, just what the doctor ordered after a hard day at the office. We finally managed to wild camp the night at Alcala del Júcar. As luck would have it, arriving just prior to a violent thunderstorm, must have been the Devil's work.

9 September

Alcala del Júcar morning after the storm

9 September

Enough of hanging houses, rivers and gorges its time for some R&R beach and sunshine at our favourite camperstop of Muchavista, just a short 2 hour hop from here.

On arrival we were treated to a very agreeable 24°C and blue skies with a bonus of a similar sea temperature. But then came trouble in paradise for a couple of hours by way of yet another violent thunderstorm.

It's behind you!

Bang, crash wallop